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Type | Cap (mAh) | Voltage | Wt oz (g) | Price (US$) approx |
J/g | Comments |
| AA | Li | 2500 | 1.5-1.8 | 0.48 (13.7) | 3.00 | 985 | Eveready L91 |
| Maxell | Li | 1300 | 6.0 | 1.2 (34.0) | 8.00 | 829 | Cloud 9 RC |
| Duracell | Li | 750 | 3.0 | 0.39 (11) | 7.00 | 730 | DLCR2, 1A continuous |
| 1/2A | Li | 650 | 3.0 | 0.34 (9.6) | 5.90 | 731 | |
| TLR7103 | Li-Metal | 850 | 3.0 | 0.60 (17) | 15.00 | 540 | Tadiran rechargeable 2.5A continuous |
| ?? | Li-Metal | 430 | 3.0 | 0.60 (11.5) | ?? | 404 | Tadiran rechargeable 1.0A continuous |
| AA | Alkaline | see charts (below) |
1.5 | 0.85 (24.1) | 0.66 | 300 | Eveready E91 |
| AAA | Alkaline | 600 | 1.5 | 0.42 (11.9) | 0.81 | 272 | estimated capacity |
| AAA | NiMH | 550 | 1.2 | 0.42 (11.8) | 3.00 | 201 | GP Battery 1.6A continuous |
| AA | NiCd | 950 | 1.2 | 0.85 (24.0) | 2.40 | 171 | |
| AA | NiCd | 800 | 1.2 | 0.74 (21.0) | 5.00 | 165 | |
| 4/5AA | NiCd | 720 | 1.2 | 0.67 (19.0) | 4.00 | 164 | |
| 2/3A | NiCd | 400 | 1.2 | 0.42 (12.0) | 1.88 | 144 | |
| NiMH | 100 | 1.2 | 0.12 (3.5) | 2.00 | 123 | Cloud 9 | |
| 2/3AA | NiCd | 300 | 1.2 | 0.39 (11.0) | 1.23 | 118 | |
| RS 23-173 | NiCd | 330 | 4.8 | 1.80 (51.1) | 12.00 | 112 | Radio Shack 250mAh |
| 1/3AA | NiCd | 180 | 1.2 | 0.25 (7.0) | 4.00 | 111 | |
| AAA | NiCd | 250 | 1.2 | 0.35 (10.0) | 4.00 | 108 | |
| 1/3AA | NiCd | 130 | 1.2 | 0.21 (6.0) | 4.00 | 94 | |
| Varta | NiCd | 120 | 1.2 | 0.21 (6.0) | 1.65 | 86 | |
| Sanyo | NiCd | 120 | 1.2 | 0.21 (6.0) | 2.20 | 86 | N120TA |
| GP | NiCd | 30 | 1.2 | 0.06 (1.6) | 3.50 | 81 | |
| Varta | NiCd | 65 | 1.2 | 0.14 (4.0) | 1.45 | 70 | |
| Sanyo | NiCd | 50 | 1.2 | 0.13 (3.6) | 1.45 | 60 | N50AAA |
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| Brand | Model | Cap (mAh) | Voltage | Wt g (oz) | Max Current (A) | Price (US$) approx |
| Kokam | 40 | 3.7 | 1.8 (0.06) | 0.25 | 5.00 | |
| Kokam | 45 | 3.7 | 1.8 (0.06) | 0.14 | 4.50 | |
| E-Tec | High-C | 90 | 3.7 | 2.3 (0.08) | 0.5 | 8.50 |
| Polycell | 120 | 3.7 | 3.2 (0.11) | 0.24 | 13.00 | |
| E-Tec | High-C | 130 | 3.7 | 3.2 (0.11) | 0.6 | 8.00 |
| Kokam | 140 | 3.7 | 3.6 (0.13) | 1.0 | 6.00 | |
| Kokam | High Discharge | 145 | 3.7 | 3.5 (0.12) | 0.7 | 8.00 |
| Polycell | 200 | 3.7 | 5.2 (0.18) | 0.4 | 14.00 | |
| E-Tec | High-C | 210 | 3.7 | 4.7 (0.17) | 1.47 | 7.50 |
| E-Tec | High-C | 250 | 3.7 | 5.7 (0.20) | 1.5 | 8.00 |
| Kokam | High Discharge | 340 | 3.7 | 9.9 (0.35) | 6.8 | 14.00 |
| Kokam | 350 | 3.7 | 9.0 (0.32) | 3.5 | 12.00 | |
| Kokam | 560 | 3.7 | 11.7 (0.41) | 1.7 | 5.50 | |
| Kokam | 640 | 3.7 | 13.0 (0.46) | 4.0 | 12.00 | |
| Kokam | High Discharge | 640 | 3.7 | 16.0 (0.56) | 6.2 | 7.00 |
| Polycell | 650 | 3.7 | 14.0 (0.49) | 1.3 | 22.00 | |
| E-Tec | High-C | 700 | 3.7 | 14.9 (0.53) | 4.2 | 9.50 |
| Kokam | 880 | 3.7 | 18.0 (0.63) | 2.6 | 6.50 | |
| Polycell | 910 | 3.7 | 21.8 (0.77) | 1.8 | 23.00 | |
| E-Tec | High-C | 1200 | 3.7 | 24.1 (0.85) | 7.2 | 12.00 |
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The normal charge rate for NiCds is C/10 or the capacity of the NiCd divided by 10. For example, a 600mAh pack should be charged at 600/10 or 60ma. This is known as the overnight rate. Although, ideally, a pack should be fully charged in 10 hours, due to inefficiency, it will probably take between 12 and 15 hours.
After being charged overnight, the battery should either be removed from the charger or the charge rate should be reduced to C/100 (the capacity divided by 100). This is known as the trickle rate. The 600mAh pack in our example would have a trickle rate of approximately 6ma. The battery may remain on the trickle rate indefinitely. Keeping your system’s batteries on trickle charge is a great idea as it will ensure that your batteries are fully charged when you go to the field. NiCds, just sitting around will probably loose 1% of their charge each day.
Most NiCds may also be charged at a higher rate such as a rapid charge of C (charge rate equal to capacity) or a quick charge of 4C or four times the capacity. This is normal practice with the packs used in powering electric models. Some cells are better at accepting a fast charge than others and these are usually denoted by being an “R” type cell or “SCR”. In fast charging NiCds, however, one has to be very careful to ensure that they do not get overcharged. Applying these high charge currents to a battery that is fully charged can at the least ruin the battery and at worst make the battery explode.
There are two basic types of NiCd fast chargers. The first is a timed charger where the charge rate is applied by turning on a timer. Timers are usually for 15 minutes although it will probably take between 20 and 25 minutes to fully charge the pack. Although timed chargers are not the best choice, they are often the most economical. Most timed chargers will come with a discharge circuit. The discharger is used to fully discharge the pack before charging so the current state of charge for the pack is known and to reduce the chance of overcharging it.
A second type of fast charger is the peak detection charger which can automatically charge your battery packs for you without the need for a timer. A circuit monitors the voltage of your pack during charge. As a NiCd charges, the voltage will increase at a slow rate. However, once the battery is fully charged, the voltage will “peak” and actually drop back slightly. The circuitry detects this drop and reduces the charge rate to trickle. You can safely charge your batteries with this type of charger and there is no need for initially discharging them.
Even though NiCds can be fast charged, it is important to slow charge your batteries at the overnight rate periodically, or about every 5 charges. This helps stabilize the cells to retain their full capacity and will lengthen their life.
Another important characteristic of NiCds that should be noted is their self discharge. Self discharging is the energy that the cell loses just sitting on the shelf with no load. Typically for NiCds, they will lose 10 to 15% of their capacity within 24 hours of coming off charge then reducing further by about 10 to 15% per month thereafter. Self-discharge rates increase with increased ambient temperature. It is a good idea to charge the batteries just before you go flying rather than charging them as soon as you get home and then not again before flying a few weeks later!
NiCd batteries are not environmentally friendly.
They contain Cadmium which is dangerous to the environment. These batteries must
be recycled and cannot be simply discarded in the waste.
NiMH Batteries

Nickel Metal Hydride (NiMH) batteries are very similar to NiCds, and have been
accepted with open arms to
the radio control community. A NiMH cell has the same nominal voltage of 1.2V
as a NiCd so they can form packs in the same way. Where the NiMH cell really shines
and has the advantage over the NiCd is in its capacity. For the same size package,
the NiMH cell carries double the energy capacity. For example a typical ‘AA’ cell
NiCd has a capacity of 700mAh whereas the NiMH ‘AA’ has about 1400mAh of capacity.
The energy to weight ratio for NiMH is much better—almost double.
There are tradeoffs, however. The NiMH cell has a higher internal resistance (almost double that of the NiCd) and as a result is limited to the speed at which energy can be charged or discharged with the cell—lower charge rates and lower discharge rates. This is particularly true of the smaller NiMH cells such as ‘AAA’ and ‘AA’, however, some of the larger capacity cells (currently in the 3000 to 3300 mAH range) are designed for higher current rates. In some applications, such as powering electric model aircraft, the higher internal resistance can be noticeable on the power output when compared to NiCds. To help offset the drop, an extra cell is often added to the pack. For instance, where a 6-cell 7.2V NiCd pack is used, select a 7-cell 8.4V NiMH pack. Internal resistance increases with drop in temperature and decreases with increased temperature.
Another disadvantage to the NiMH is the useable working life. “Lifespan” in terms of age for NiCds and NiMH cells is similar, around 4 or 5 years, however, NiCds are capable of a greater number of usage cycles. Typically NiCds are capable of 1000 or more discharge/charge cycles whereas NiMH cells are limited to around 300 to 400. This may or may not be limiting for the user, depending upon one’s application.
Self-discharge also applies to NiMH cells. In fact, one may experience a higher self-discharge rate with NiMHs than with NiCds.
Although NiMH cells have been touted as not having “memory” like NiCds, this is not completely true. The nickel component in these cells is partially responsible for the memory effect. In a NiCd, both the nickel and the cadmium contribute to the memory while in the NiMH cell, the nickel is the only component contributing to the effect. As a result, NiCds show the effects of memory considerably more than NiMH. Cyclers can still play an important role in the exercising of NiMH to keep them delivering optimum capacity and output.
Charging characteristics for NiMH is slightly different than NiCd, particularly around the full charge point. Peak chargers used should be designed for NiMH cells and not just for NiCds to assure they turn off after peaking.
One other advantage for NiMH cells that should
not be overlooked is that they are more environmentally friendly than NiCds—NiCds
containing cadmium which is a chemical not desirable to have loose in the environment.
NiMH may be simply discarded in the waste when they have reached the end of their
life.
Li-Po Batteries

Electric Flight has come a long way in the past
few years with much of the credit going to the development of sophisticated
electronic motor controllers. Here are some of the features you should look
for when choosing an ESC for your aircraft and what they do . . .
Pictured above is a typical setup for an
electric motor system. Servos and receiver battery have been left out for clarity.
Please also note that we have not shown either a protective fuse or an arming
switch, both of which are recommended and quite often used by modelers.
Take special note of the electronic speed control and how small it is. The unit shown is the Castle Creations Pegasus capable of handling up to 35 amps of continuous current. It is actully physically smaller than the Sermos connectors used in the circuit.
Not only are today's motor controllers very small, they are also usually microprocessor driven and have quite a few functions that make life much easier for the electric modeler. Here we will discuss some of these features and their usefulness.
Voltage Rating
This is the voltage part of the operating range that an electronic motor controller
is designed to operate over. It is generally specified as the number of NiCd
cells to be used in the model. This figure can be converted to actual voltage
by multiplying the number of cells by 1.2. There is 1.2 volts in each NiCd cell.
Current Rating
The current rating is the amount of current that the unit is capable of handling.
There are usually two numbers involved here, one being the continuous current
rating and the other being the peak current. As the term implies, the continuous
current is the amount of current that the speed control can supply on an ongoing
basis without damage. Peak current is the amount of current that the unit can
supply in short bursts before the unit gets overheated and possibly damaged.
Current Limiter
The current limiter prevents damage to the controller should the propeller be
stopped while in operation. The more load that is placed on an electric motor,
the more current it draws. If the motor shaft is stopped, the motor appears
to the power source as being very close to a short circuit and therefore wants
to draw a great deal of current. A current limiter will reduce this maximum
that it can supply so as to prevent damage to the controller, wiring and the
motor.
Prop Brake
The prop brake is a feature found on some controllers to keep the prop from
free-wheeling when power is off. Essentially it applies a small amount of reverse
current in power off position to oppose the free-wheeling of the prop. It is
not enough current to make the propeller turn backwards.
Battery Eliminator Circuit (BEC)
A Battery Eliminator Circuit permits using the main battery that powers the
motor to also power the receiver and servos, thus eliminating the need for a
second battery pack to supply these units. This gives a weight saving to the
model, which can be crucial in electric powered aircraft. Plugging the motor
controller into the receiver is all that is necessary to activate this function.
Be sure the BEC for the motor controller you have selected is sufficient to
power the number of servos you intend to use.
Power Cut-Off
This function works in conjunction with the BEC circuit. Obviously, if you are
using your main power battery to also power your radio system, you don't want
to loose control of the model once the motor has drained the battery. The Power
Cut-off function will automatically cut the power off to the motor when the
battery voltage has dropped to a pre-set level, ensuring that there is enough
power remaining in the battery to supply the radio for the remainder of the
flight.
Temperature Overload Protection
This function is also used protect the motor controller from heat damage. If
the operating temperature of the unit reaches a certain point, the circuitry
will automatically shut it down. Heat is the biggest enemy of electronic components.
Motor-On Safety Start
Many motor controllers have a safety feature that prevents the motor from being
accidently activated when the radio is turned on. The motor is usually off when
the throttle stick is in the lower portion of its range. The exact position
of where the motor turns off can usually be adjusted through a potentiometer
on the motor controller. The safety start ensures that the throttle stick has
to be put into this lower range before the motor will start in the first place.
This ensures that if the radio is turned on with the throttle stick at above
the minimum position, the motor will not come on unexpectedly.
Dry the motor the best you can.
Now apply one drop of Light Machine Oil to the b
ushings
where the motor shaft comes out at each end.
Run the unloaded motor again for a few seconds, using your small battery pack.
This will helpto put oil get into the bushing. When
done, whip off the excess oil with a clean cloth, or towel.
When Finished - Your
motor is brokein in, Brushes are seated,
The Motor is cleaned, and the Bushings are oiled.
The
Motor Battery Pack
A "Timing Tool" may be
purchased from one of the electric hobby vendors. They're are
fairly reasonably priced. your own without too much
trouble. Hook up the Timing Tool by placing the brass ring (without the hole for
the rod) on the front of your motor and secure in place using the supplied screws.
You may have to shorten the screws so the motor turns freely when the screws a
snug (I did). Now put your motor in a vise so that the brass ring is secure between
the jaws. Put the other brass ring (the one with the hole for the rod and the
two pins sticking out of it) on the back of the motor. The pins should fit inside
two corresponding holes on the back plate. Don't be
suprised if your pins don't fit perfectly. Now slide
the rod through the brass ring. VERY IMPORTANT!!! -
Turn the back plate counter clockwise as viewing the back of the
motor. You don't need to loosen the crimps that hold the back plate on.
If you tourque the rod hard enough, the plate will move. The amount will very
from motor to motor.
To find out how much you need to move your back plate is by what you see.
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