HELP DIRECTORY - 9-H

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NOTE : THE HELP TOPICS
The help topics consist of links and Help Topics accumulated over the years.
Many of them were from RCM Model magazine that is now defunct. 
Please review these help topics.
If we have a topic or LINK listed and you are the author and do not want this published in this E-book,
Just notify us and it will be promptly removed.
gwhite4432@aol.com

SELECT YOUR TOPIC BELOW :

• TOPIC LISTINGS :
   Handels  You can glue toothpicks to small parts, you can also wrap some rubber bands around an old toothbrush and then place this in a suitable spot (eg: up the tailpipe) to hold the model while you paint around it.
  Hanger Rash
  HANGAR RASH
  Hanger rash is the bane of every modeler. A cheap and easy way to afford some protection to your pride and joy is as follows. For a wing cover try taking a beach towel and fold it in half, lengthwise. Ask the wife to sew the towel together down its length and across one end.  For the tail surfaces, find three styrofoam blocks of appropriate size. Slice out slots in the blocks such that you can slide a block over each end of the horizontal stab and over the top of the fin.
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   Hardwood
  ( Hardwood ) For spars, I use 1X4 by 8 ft. Poplar or maple. One board can be carefully cut in a table saw with a fine blade ( be safe when you use power tools ).  You can cut these in 1/4 X 3/8, 1/4 X 1/2, etc. and make enough sticks to last for years!

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  Helicopter Tips
  
  HELICOPTER VIBRATION PROBLEMS
  If the tail boom shakes, the imbalance is likely in the rotor head assembly. If it is the landing skids that shake, the imbalance is likely in the engine fan or clutch assembly.
  R/C Helicopter Fever
  Setting-up a Helicopter - by Tony van Roon
   

  SPRING PREP CHECKLIST FOR RC HELICOPTER
  
  ANTENNA - check antenna mountings, check for abrasion and wire cuts
  
  BEARINGS AND BUSHINGS - grease or oil, replace if rough.
  BELT - adjust tension, check for missing teeth and cuts.
  BATTERIES - charge and cycle all batteries - transmitter, receiver,
  glow
  driver, and starter batteries.
  BLADES - reshrink blade covering
  BOOM - check for boom and tail rotor drive belt tightness
  
  CANOPY - look for cracks, loose decals, retaining clips and grommets
  
  ENGINE - check mounting and muffler bolts, install new glow plug, check
  carb, head and backplate tightness, check carb linkage
  
  FINS - check tail fin tightness and alignment.
  FLYBAR - paddles still aligned?
  FRAME - check for cracks, tighten screws
  FUEL LINE - new
  FUEL FILTER - clean
  FUEL PUMP - does it still pump after sitting all winter?
  FUEL TANK - check tank seal. Look for excessive chafing.
  
  GEARS - look for missing teeth, excessive wear.
  GLOW PLUG EXTENSION - check for abrasion, loose connections.
  GYRO - look for split gyro mounting tape, check wires for abrasion
  
  HEAD - check head to main shaft tightness, retaining bolts and nuts,
  feather
  shaft nuts
  HEADER TANK - check retaining bolt, tank seal. new fuel line
  
  LANDING GEAR - check tightness
  LINKAGES - check for worn out ball links and balls, check for linkage
  tightness and binding.
  
  MUFFLER - check pressure tap, muffler extension, also see ENGINE
  
  RADIO GEAR - check servo and arm tightness, battery and receiver
  mounting,
  switch, all wire connectors, check all wires and antenna for abrasion.
  Consider replacing servos after 300-500 flights, switch every other
  year.
  
  SETUP - go over radio and heli setup again, settings drift over time
  from
  changing blades, servos, adding upgrades, crashes. Be sure setup is
  what you
  want.
  SERVOS - check for gear train and output shaft wear and noise. Make
  sure
  balls are tight on servo arms. Also see RADIO GEAR
  SWASHPLATE - grease or oil, check for excessive play.
  
  TAIL ROTOR - check grip tightness, bearings, slider shaft, gearbox, etc
  for
  wear and looseness.
  TRANSMITTER - make sure switches are set in proper position (dual
  rates,
  gyro, etc). Check antenna tightness. Also see RADIO GEAR, BATTERIES.
  
  
  LIST OF "MUST HAVE" FIELD BOX CONTENTS
  
  AMA CARD
  BALL LINK PLIERS
  FUEL
  FUEL PUMP
  GLOW PLUG HEATER (CHARGED)
  GLOW PLUG WRENCH
  GLOW PLUGS (SPARE)
  HEX KEYS
  SCREWDRIVERS
  STARTER
  STARTER BATTERY (CHARGED)
  STARTER ADAPTER
  TRANSMITTER (CHARGED)
  VOLTMETER
  
  
  UPGRADE S/MODS FOR RAPTOR 30 THAT INCREASE CAPABILITY OR RELIABILITY
  
  CUT DOWN HORIZONTAL FIN
  DRIVEN TAIL MOD
  FRAME BRACE
  HEADER TANK
  INVERTED HEAD
  KSJ PADDLES
  LOOPED ANTENNA
  MACHINED THROTTLE ARM
  UPGRADED BOOM SUPPORTS
  UPGRADE MUFFLER OR TUNED PIPE
  WAH WAH SHIM

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  Hinge Tips
  There are many types of hinges on the market.
  The important thing to watch out for is that they should be strong enough so they won't pull out, and the gap between the surfaces should be as small as possible.
  
  When installing CyA hinges, mark and slot balsa as you normally would. Remove approx.1/8 inch off the out side corners at 45 degrees so that the hinges go in easier. Then take a T-pin for the outside holes in your hinge and insert through the hinge so that the hinge is where you want it for installation Remove the T-pins, and insert toothpicks.Turn you material to where any glue or thin CA you may be using will not seep towards the front of the hinge.Avoid too much CA. A drop will do it per hinge hole. Mark the top of your hinge locations. If your are covering the model with Iron on material, use a strip first along the edge you are installing your hinges. An exacto blade will cut the material where your have your hinges located.It is easy and neat.
  
  HINGE SLOTS
  Use a circular saw blade with a hole for a 1/4 inch mandrel. Using a 1/4-20 bolt as a mandrel, chuck into your drill press.
  Make sure the material being cut is square with the cutting blade (This can be done by taping the opposite hinge piece material to the other side of the material being cut.Set the depth you want for the hinge slot. This cuts perfectly aligned hinge slots of the right size fast and neat.
  
  Installing Ca hinges
  After cutting the slots for the CA hinges, mark a center line on each side of each hinge with a crayon. Now, insert a t-pin or pin through the middle of the crayon mark. Drill a small 1/16" to 1/8" hole in the center of your hinge slots on on both surfaces (this will help the CA wick deeper into the surface). Insert the hinge into the control surface and then into the trailing edge. Apply 5 to 6 drops of thin CA to top side and then to the bottom side of the hinge. The pin will keep the hinge centered so you get an adequate amount of hinge in each surface. The crayon line will prevent CA from hardening the hingle line to a point of brittle and thus alleviates hinge breaking.
  
  When using CA hinges use a marker to draw a black line across the middle of the hinge. This way you can tell if the hinge is being pushed into the wing when you put on the aileron. I have had some hinges do this and end up with a sixteenth of an inch in the aileron and the rest in the wing, not very strong. If you can't keep the hinge from being pushed into the wing stick a pin through the middle of the hinge it will not weaken the hinge at all.

  INSTALLATION WITH EPOXY
  Use a plastic drinking straw as a disposable "hypodermic". Flatten the end of the straw between your fingers and test fit into the hinge slot so you will get the hang of inserting it. Then mix your epoxy, scoop some up in the end of the flattened straw, insert it into the slot, and "milk" the epoxy into the slot. You can then wipe the outside of the hinge slots off before inserting the hinges. This assures that each slot is filled with epoxy. Then (To really assure they wont pull out),Take a small drill and drill though the control surface and pin the hinges with a toothpick. The toothpick should then be cut off flush, and a small piece of covering placed over the toothpick pin.
  Another method for inserting the hinges into the slot is to carefully dip the hinge end that hinges in wax. Insert an L shaped pin into the holes and then remove this pin after the hinge is installed.
  
     If you need to install pin type hinges using epoxy, try this...
  Cut the slots in both surfaces using one of the many excellent slotting tools currently on the market. Rough up the hinge with a coarse grit sandpaper and then, using a tooth pick, apply a little vaseline (Petroleum Jelly) to the actual hinge joint. Try not to get it on the tags as this will weaken the glue joint.
  OK, now mix up your favourite epoxy. To get the glue into the hinge slots, take a drink straw and scoop the mixed epoxy into the straw (a bit messy but the end result is worth while). Now, flatten the end of the straw and fit it into the hinge slot. carefully slide your fingers down the straw to force the glue into the slot where it can do the most good. Fit the hinge, remove the excess epoxy (there should be some) with medical alcohol which is available from your favourite chemist, and repeat for the next hinge. A roll of toilet paper is handy for economical mess clean ups.

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    HOBBY KNIVES     
  Finding your hobby knife  Finding your hobby knife on a cluttered workbench can be a frustrating and possibly painful experience. So give your knife a good home, get a cardboard tube from a roll of covering and cut it (if you can find your knife) about one inch shorter then the length of your knife make an end for the tube out of lite ply or other wood and seal up one end with it or fold over the end of the tube and staple. Now CA the tube to a convenient place like the end of your work bench or under a shelf . You will wonder how you got along without it providing you remember to put the knife back where it belongs.

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    Better Screw Holes
  When you have to use screws that will be removed often drill the holes for the screws large enough to allow you to insert a small piece of Sullivan Gold-N-Rod glue the rod in the hole. The screws can then be removed and reinserted with out weakening the wood. This is Not recommend this for high stress areas. 

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  Instrument panels

• Sealing Hinge Gaps - Well Worth the Effort
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  HINGE GAPS
  
   It is worth the effort to get seal the hinge gaps. Unsealed gaps create drag and the turbulent air  can create flutter and ruin your flying day.
  When a hinged surface is down ( as shown ) it gets worse.

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   HOSE CLAMPS

  Cheap hose clamps
  If you need a hose clamp for your fuel tubing try this , Cut a small piece of tubing about a quarter inch long and put it over the tips of a pair of needle nose plies then spread the plies and slip the end of the hose through the smaller piece. Put on the hose and slide down the clamp piece over the fitting. (From one of the guys at the field)

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  OTHER REFERENCE LINKS :
  Chris Yeske's Hirobo Shuttle ZXX Site  (helicopter info and flying tips) helicopter
  Eriq's Helicopter Info Page  good general information, with a page of "lessons learned"
  Home of the Shuttle ZXX 46 Racing Conversion (this is the site of the machine that took the 46 AND 60 class 2000 heli drag races in Sacramento - and it's just a shuttle! )
  The Helispot  (a site with a great collection of pictures of full-size helicopters, indexed in several ways)
  The Hover Pad (electric helicopter info)
  How Helicopters Work  (a great explanation of basic helicopter flight principles)
  Meneer's Raptor 30 hints page
  Michael Prewitt's RAPTOR TECHNIQUE  (a MUST SEE site - Michael Prewitt's Raptor info site, with extensive setup and troubleshooting tips, and lots of how-to's)
  Tubular Hinges - Knuckle or arrowshaft hinges for gapless hinge lines.
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