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NOTE
: THE HELP TOPICS
The help topics consist of links and Help Topics
accumulated over the years.
Many of them were from RCM Model magazine that is now defunct.
Please review these help topics.
If we have a topic or LINK listed and you are the author and do not want this
published in this E-book,
Just notify us and it will be promptly removed.
gwhite4432@aol.com
SELECT YOUR TOPIC BELOW
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TOPIC LISTINGS
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Paint Tips
ALTERNATE
DOPE THINNER
PPG 876 used on most race cars
works very well.
BRUSH CLEANING
After doping, rinse the paint brush with thinner until clean, then
wash the brush with warm, soapy water.
Squeeze dry with a paper towel. Place the brush(s in a jar, handle down.
Next time you use the brush, it will be
soft and with no paint or thinner to harden the bristles
Cheap paint brushes
Next time you go to the dollar store look for a package of cheep
paint brushes, you can sometimes get a pack of 20 for, gee, well a
dollar. They work super for mixing
and spreading epoxy and even can be
used for painting!
EYE GLASSES
Stretch a piece of Saran Wrap over the glasses using some
Scoth tape to hold it in place when you are painting.
When thru you'll have glasses that you can actually see through.
Getting that Great Looking Finish
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MASKING TAPE
You can remove masking tape with a lessened chance of pulling up
the paint if you heat the tape with a heat gun as you pull the tape. Just
a little heat is all that is needed; don't overdo it. Also, pull the tape
back over itself when you are removing it to further reduce the risk of pulling
paint up.
MIXING CUPS
The small Cups for your bathroom that
are normally used for rinsing your mouth make excellant Mixing Cups for paintor
resins
PAINT MATCHING
Take
a swatch of covering to an Auto Body Paint shop.
Some will scan get the paint code, and mix your paint for you.Some
may put it in an Aerosal can for you.
PAINT BRUSH
Drill a small hole in the ferrule of your new paint brush and drop
some CA in it. Now you won't lose nearly as many bristles on your work.
Painting Foam Planes- Krylon
makes aspraypaintcalled Krylon H2O that is not harmfull
tofoam! This paint is great! This Webmaster has tried it with no
hint of damaging the foam. Locally I found it at: Walmart, K-mart, some Ace Hardware stores, Although I found
it is hard to get all the colors at one place. Here is the
website to learn more about it.
http://krylon.com/sprayyourway/h2oproducts/
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RUST-O-LEUM
Rust-O-Leum paint is available at most any hardware store at very
reasonable prices in both bulk and spray cans. The paint is fuel proof and
makes an excellent finishing material.
THINNER
Goop" or "PFM" is usually
thick in application. To thin these miracle adhesives can be thinned by using
Toulene or Xylene available at your local hardware store. It does not take
much to thin these products.
VARATHANE
The solution to fuel proofing is a coat or two of clear "Diamond
Finish" Flecto Verathane.
This is also available in aerosol spray cans and comes in satin, semi-gloss
and high gloss. Another advantage of using the Verathane as a fuel proofer
is that it can be cleaned up with water.
HobbyShed
Dudley,
West Midlands, United Kingdom -
HobbyShed is all about building and painting model kits. Site features include
modelling techniques, hints, tips, gallery and forum for all modelmaking skill
levels. Come see whats going on in the HobbyShed!
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Propeller
Topics
SAFETY
Try this solution. Put a o-ring on
the end of the engine crank shaft after you get everything secured. It may
keep the prop nut from spinning all the way off next time your engine decides
to be cantankerous.
NOTE:Wooden propellers, compress after being subjected to tightening down
of the prop nut. Check them often.
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Below are some safety items that although
seem elementary still need to be repeated regarding propellers and their use.
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Install the prop with the curved side of the
blade facing forward and tighten the prop nut or bolt with the proper size
wrench.
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Recheck the
tightness of the nut or bolt often, especially on wood props which tend to
compress and loosen more often.
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When starting
the engine, keep spectators at least 20 feet clear of the model and out of
the path of the propeller.
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Keep hands away from
the prop as much as possible. Use a chicken stick or and electic starter.
- Keep face and body out of prop arc as engine
is started and run.
- Make all adjustments from behind the prop except
on pusher prop installations.
- Never throw anything into the prop to stop the
engine. Use a kill switch or pinch off the engine's fuel supply.
- Discard any prop with nicks, scratches, splits,
cracks or any other sign of damage. Never attempt to repair, alter or bend
a prop.
- Don't run an engine in areas of loose gravel or sand
for the prop can throw such material into your face and eyes. It's not a bad
idea to wear eye protection.
- Keep loose clothing, shirt sleeves, and other
such items away from the prop and avoid carrying objects that can fall into
the prop such as pens, screwdrivers, etc.
- Be sure to keep the glow driver wire out of the
prop path.
- If a spinner is used, be certain that it's
edges are not in contact with the propeller blades.
Prop
detailing and tip painting:When finishing
your latest pride and joy, or you just want to class up a plane already
flying, most people forget about the prop. A prop with painted tips is
safer in the fact that it aides you in see the prop arc as the prop is
turning and a detailed prop just looks good. Listed here a few simple
steps and ideas.
The black plastic propellers (Master Airscrew as an example take
a lot of punishment without breaking.It's a good idea to paint the tips of
your propellers white or yellow. You can see the propeller arc easily this
way.
You can also use paint as an aid in balancing your propellers.
It is not necessary to apply the paint to both sides
1 Check the prop and balance if required.
2 For larger props 1” and ¼” tape looks pretty good, and for smaller
props 3/4” and 1/8” tape look pretty good. You can use masking tape or
some type of vinyl tape (the vinyl tape gives a finer line.
3 Start by cleaning the blade tips with rubbing alcohol or something
that leaves the surface squeaky clean.
4 Using the larger size tape, place in on the tip of the blade
perpendicular to the end.
5 Next, place the smaller tape right next to the larger width tape.
6 Place another piece of smaller width right next to the one you
just put in place.
7 Next, place a piece of the wider tape next to that.
8 Now, remove the wider width at the tip and the second piece of
thinner tape.
9 Lightly sand the 1” and ¼” exposed area with 400 grit or similar
sanding paper.
10 Do the same to the other prop tip.
11 Mask off in between the areas to be sprayed.
12 Using Krylon or similar fast drying paint, color of your choice
(white, red or yellow show up well, spray a light coat on the exposed
areas, when this coat is tacky, spray a final coat attaining a glossy wet
look.
13 Remove the tape that was left in place before the paint dries and
set the prop aside to dry.
14 Now, check the balance again and you are good to go.
If you decide to go further and paint the entire prop, lightly sand the
entire prop and then paint the face of the prop (the face of the prop is
the side of the prop that the pilot sees when setting in the cockpit flat
black. The airfoil side of the prop is usually dove gray, white or can be
a color that matches your airplane. Once the entire prop is painted you
can add prop manufacture decals and then paint the tips as listed above.
To balance the prop, if required, spray flat black paint on the light side
of the prop and then re-check balance
3-Blade Props
3-blade propellers are useful when you have a scale plane that's
modeled after a plane that uses them. However, since the engine has
more mass to turn, the maximum RPM is lower. The general rule is to
use a 3-bladed prop one inch smaller in diameter than the 2-blade you
would normally use. This will allow close to the same maximum RPM as
you would have with a 2-bladed prop. You may also increase the pitch
by one inch, but experiment and see what works best with your engine
and plane.
Thrust Line
(Prop Effect #5 - Thrust line effects.
Sharp
Props
Most propellers have very sharp edges when new, especially at the
trailing edge, which can cut your fingers. Always sand the edges
smooth with fine sandpaper as soon as you buy them. Be extra careful
when turning over someone else's motors by hand, because they might
not have sanded the edges of their props.
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Use these charts
to help select the proper size propeller
for your two or four stroke model airplane.
Prop Chart For Two - Stroke Engines
| Alternate Propellors |
Starting Prop |
Engine Size |
| 5.25x4, 5.5x4, 6x3.5, 6x4,
7x3 |
6x3 |
.049 |
| 7x3,7x4.5,7x5 |
7x4 |
.09 |
| 8x5,8x6,9x4 |
8x4 |
.15 |
| 8x5,8x6,9x5 |
9x4 |
.19 - .25 |
| 9x7,9.5x6,10x5 |
9x6 |
.20 - .30 |
| 9x7,10x5,11x4 |
10x6 |
.35 - .36 |
| 9x8, 11x5 |
10x6 |
.40 |
| 10x6,11x5,11x6,12x4 |
10x7 |
.45 |
| 10x8,11x7,12x4,12x5 |
11x6 |
.50 |
| 11x7.5, 11x7.75, 11x8,12x6 |
11x7 |
.60 - .61 |
| 11x8,12x8,13x6,14x4 |
12x6 |
.70 |
| 12x8,14x4,14x5 |
13x6 |
.78 - .80 |
| 13x8,15x6,16x5 |
14x6 |
.90 - .91 |
| 15x8,18x5 |
16x6 |
1.08 |
| 16x10,18x5,18x6 |
16x8 |
1.20 |
| 18x8,20x6 |
18x6 |
1.50 |
| 18x10,20x6,20x8,22x6 |
18x8 |
1.80 |
| 18x10,20x6,20x10,22x6 |
20x8 |
2.00 |
Prop Chart For Four - Stroke Engines
| Alternate Propellers |
Starting Prop |
Engine Size |
| 9x5,10x5 |
9x6 |
.20 - .21 |
| 10x6,10x7,11x4,11x5.11x7,11x7.5,12x4,12x5 |
11x6 |
.40 |
| 10x6,10x7,10x8,11x7,11x7.5,12x4,12x5,12x6 |
11x6 |
.45 - .48 |
| 11x7.5,11x7.75,11x8,12x8,13x5,13x6,14x5,14x6 |
12x6 |
.60 - .65 |
| 12x8,13x8,14x4,14x6 |
13x6 |
.80 |
| 13x6,14x8,15x6,16x6 |
14x6 |
.90 |
| 14x8,15x6,15x8,16x8,17x6,18x5,18x6 |
16x6 |
1.20 |
| 15x6,15x8,16x8,18x6,18x8,20x6 |
18x6 |
1.60 |
| 18x12,20x8,20x10 |
18x10 |
2.40 |
| 18x10,18x12,20x10 |
20x8 |
2.70 |
| 18x12,20x10 |
20x10 |
3.00 |
- Starting Propellor sizes are mid range
pitch props that should fly just about any plane designed for that size
engine. Use these first as in most cases they will be close to being the
correct size. Then use trial and error to try and fine tune the maximum
performance from your ship by trying the alternate props. If none work
better stick with the recommended starting prop.
Prop Effects
- The effects of a spinning prop on the plane:
For all practical purposes,
(excluding those prop effects) we can consider that the engines thrust
acts along the centerline of the engines crankshaft. The plans for
your plane show whether or not that coincides with the centerline of
the plane itself - it may or may not, depending on the plane and how
well the designer did his job.
From the prop effects story, you know
that all of our planes, to some degree, want to turn to the left when
slow, at high power, and at a high angle of attack. This is not always
a good thing; not all pilots have the experience to correct with just
the right amount of right rudder at the right time. Let's face it -
we'd rather the darn thing wanted to go straight ALL the time. And we
can do that, by using some right thrust on the engine.
By shifting the engine so it points a
bit to the right, the engine will tend to pull the nose of the plane
to the right, turning the plane. And that turning tendency will be
proportional to the amount of power applied, as is the prop effect
tendency for the plane to turn left. So by putting in a degree or two
of right thrust, the prop effects may be pretty much cancelled out.
The only down side to this procedure is that the right thrust will be
left thrust when the plane is inverted, ADDING to the prop effect.
The thrust line may also be shifted to
help out with pitch (up and down) problems. Flat bottom wing trainers
are notorious for wanting to go up with full power - we trim them for
loping about at 1/2 power, and when we goose the engine, up goes the
plane. To a large degree, this tendency can be cured with DOWN thrust;
with the thrust line pointed down a bit, the more power we apply, the
more the nose wants to go down, counteracting the tendency for the
plane to go up at the higher speed. The plans for my Seniorita include
6 degrees of downthrust, which is a LOT - but that contributes to the
fine flying qualities of that design.
Shifting the thrust line is relatively
simple - you can just stick a washer or two behind the engine mount,
or you can buy plates with the angle manufactured in. Better yet,
build it into the plane; the Goldberg Extra 300 kit has allowed for
3-4 degrees right thrust, shifting the rear of the engine mount to the
left so that the spinner will line up properly.
So how do we know if changing the
thrust line will give us a better flying plane? If your plane has a
vicious tendency to go left when its slow and you add full power, you
would definitely be better off with some right thrust. The same
applies if the nose always drops in left turns and comes up in right
turns. Experimentation will tell you how much for the plane involved
and the way you fly. And if your plane always wants to climb at full
power, or if when you trim hands off at full power, then chop the
throttle, the plane dives, some down thrust will help.
The above techniques are a part of the trimming process. Don't be
afraid to make changes if your plane doesn't fly the way it should;
and thrust line changes are relatively easy to do, and can always be
changed back if the results are not what you want.
Bending a Reverse-S Prop Hook
The
Idiot's Guide to Prop Carving v2.02 From David Dodge
Propellers
Propellers,
prop-balancing - by Tony van Roon
Propulsion
by Propellers
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Push Rod Tips
Any Old
Bikes Lying Around?
A good thing to use for pushrods are bicycle spokes. You
can find
old used wheels for next to nothing andtake out the spokes.They are threaded and come in
different sizes.
CABLE PUSHRODS
Cable pushrods for the throttle linkage has its advantages. It
doesn't have to be an exact length.
It can be cut long and still serve well. The cable will flex when pushed forward
and not cause a bind at the servo.
FASTENING TIP
An easy way to secure Ny-rod or Golden-rod type push rods to the
sides of the fuselage is to use small pieces of light fabric. Take a strip
of the fabric and lay over the outer case of the push rod and press against
the surface to which you wish to attach the push rod casing. Flow thin CA
on to the fabric to bond the fabric to the surface. Try a piece of
Saran Wrap between your fingers and the fabric to keep yourself from
being bonded with your model.
Installing
Pushrods One of the best
ways to take some of the friction out of pushrod installation, especially
where you have to make Some bends in the plastic tubing, is to shoot a
little silicone spray into the plastic tube. When the metal pushrod is
installed and worked back and forth a little (to spread the silicone), it
becomes very easy to move through the plastic tube thus eliminating
pressure off the servo. This works especially well for throtle
installations.
David Till
PUSHROD LENGTHS
An easy way to get the lengths exactly right is to tie a string
to the control horn on the control surface. Drop the free end of the string
through the fuselage. With the control surface in the neutral position, tie
the other end of the string to the servo arm. Cut off the excess string at
both tie points. Now, cut the string at both tie points and what you end up
with a piece of string which is the exact length
of the push rod you will need to fabricate.
Alternate
Sources for Pushrods : A good thing to use for
pushrods are bicycle spokes. You can find old
used wheels for next to nothing and take out the
spokes.They are threaded and come in different sizes.
Littlewing
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