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TOPIC LISTINGS :
Reinforcement Tips
Rocket Launchers
Rocketry Equations Nose cones,
fins, transitions, and other model rocket parts can be easily produced
using resin casting techniques. The time and effort that go into
fabricating a custom nose cone or a built-up fin need only be expended
once to produce a master pattern, around which an RTV
(room-temperature-vulcanizing) rubber mold will be poured. The mold can
then be used to cast many duplicates of the original part using two-part
room-temperature-curing polyurethane resin. This article is not intended to be a comprehensive guide, but rather
a primer that will cover most of the unique molding and casting
situations that model rocketeers will encounter. Although the RTV
rubbers and resins are neither corrosive nor highly toxic, it is
advisable to use them only in a well-ventilated area away from open
flame or sparks. Before using the materials, read and understand the
Material Safety Data Sheets and the manufacturer's safety instructions
that are included with the RTV rubbers and resins.
REPRINTED WITH PERMISSION
by Roger Woodward, RCRC
Member
Edited January 22, 2003
Click here for a PDF version of this document.
The
RC hobby is a potentially dangerous hobby that can cause physical harm and
damage to others. Each RC pilot participates at his own risk. Rookie Tips
are made available to all pilots, but are especially helpful to new pilots
and members. This is a lengthy document that you need to read more than
once. There is more information here than you can possibly retain in one
sitting. The content is not to be construed as an all-inclusive
instructional document pertaining to all RC topics. The intention of the
club in providing you this document is to provide new members with something
to read that hopefully encourages questions and discussions with instructors
and experienced members. No one and nothing can teach you everything you
need to know in one discussion, or reading. The RC hobby is a fun ongoing
learning experience that encourages interaction and fellowship with fellow
hobby enthusiast. Get involved, ask questions and begin the learning process
by reading RCRC Rookie Tips.
1. Rules
–
RC is a great hobby that is wonderful fun but it can also be dangerous if we
neglect safety. We encourage membership for all ages.
This
means we all have a mutual responsibility to look out for each other and to
help keep our club safe and fun for all members.
The rules
of our club were decided upon and put into effect for your safety and
enjoyment. Please respect them and adhere to them. On behalf of all members,
we thank you for taking this matter very seriously.
2. Asking
for help and taking advice
–After visiting the field a few times you will soon learn we probably have
one of the best facilities in the world and decades of experience among our
members. RCRC has within it’s membership the finest builders and RC pilots
you will find anywhere in the hobby.
Each time
you come to the field you should learn something new about the hobby.
If
you aren’t learning it’s because you aren’t asking, or paying attention.
Any question you don’t know the answer to is a good question. All you have
to do is ask. From time to time we all wonder why someone didn’t tell us
about this or that. Remember, you need to be patient and assertive in
seeking out answers to your questions. Some of us are more stubborn than
others, which usually is revealed by the number and variety of mistakes we
make. Eventually we learn to swallow our pride and listen to the years of
experience that is made available free of charge. We can’t tell you how many
times we all have said the following. “You know what, he/she was right.”
So, once you ask the question and get a good answer, pay heed to it. It may
very well keep you, or someone else from losing an airplane, damaging
property or becoming injured.
3. Simulator
training–Before
working with an instructor, many of us first learned how to fly on a
simulator. Some of us didn’t. Those that learned on a simulator will tell
you that it makes the learning experience more fun and overall less
expensive. Instructors will tell you that money spent on a simulator will
pay you back in spared airplanes. If you can save just one airplane from the
garbage can you have paid for the simulator. Simulator training can be used
day and night regardless of the weather, or wind conditions. The benefit of
using a simulator is stick time, stick time, stick time. There are several
RC simulators on the market. Ask Rick at RC Hobbies in Huntsville, or ask
one of the instructors for simulator product recommendations before you buy
anything.
4. Buying an airplane.
This is the time to seek out an instructor, or experienced RCRC member for
help.
Do not
buy anything without first talking to someone that knows what he is talking
about.
We have several expert premier builders in the club. Each has an opinion on
which trainer, engine, receiver, transmitter and servo selections are the
best. So, it’s always good to compare ideas and suggestions by talking with
more than one person. In the end, you have to make your own decision. After
all, it’s your money. Buying new or used is a matter of preference and
budget. There are several trainer ARF (Almost ready to fly) kits available
for around 350.00. If you search around you can find a used plane including
the transmitter for around 200.00. The important thing is to make sure you
are getting good value for your dollars by asking for help in
selecting
a good quality product
at
a
fair market price before you buy.
After gaining experience with a trainer you will want to move up to a more
advance second airplane. Again, this is the time to seek experienced help.
You need someone to guide you who is familiar with your flying skills and
hobby preferences before you select your next airplane. There are different
airplanes for different kinds of flying. A qualified instructor, or
experienced member will be glad to help you select the right second plane
for you.
5.
Field Equipment
–
Selecting the right field equipment is as important as selecting the right
airplane. Here again your preferences and budget will greatly impact the
direction you take. Here are a few basic tips to get you started. For the
record, you will never stop upgrading and supplying your equipment and
accessories needs. Go to RC Hobbies and ask Rick for help in selecting a
quality
field box,
battery, starter, refueling setup, glow starter and extra glow plugs. It is
also recommended that you get a
medium
sized fishing tackle box
to use as a toolbox and for storing your extra parts and pieces. Many people
use fishing tackle boxes because the design is perfect for storing volumes
of small things in multiple compartments. You don’t get the same design and
layout with a standard toolbox. Smaller tools and flight line required tools
easily fit in the field box. You will need an assortment of fuel tubing,
wheel collars and
spare
props.
You will also need packages of various screws, nuts and bolts. You should
include but not limit the following items in your
tool kit.
Scissors, Exacto knife, extra # 11blades, tape, small drill and drill bits,
small flashlight, small measuring tape, #64 size rubber bands, thin and
thick CA glue, epoxy, accelerator, Goop, blue thread lock, Dremel tool and
accessories, hex head set for standard and metric, wire cutters, small
crescent wench, small hammer, needle nose pliers,
very
small to medium
flat head
and Philips screw drivers. This is not conclusive, but it’s a start.
6. Where
do you purchase what you need?
– This is a good question each of us is confronted with when we get into the
hobby. Do you purchase items from your local hobby store or from an online
discount hobby center? In the end you have to make your own choice. Many of
us are members of Tower Hobbies Super Saver club. It’s not a bad deal, but
you have to purchase 150.00 of merchandise to get free shipping and the 10%
discount advertised with the Super Saver promo. The sales are a hit and
miss and probably at times very good. If you want to use an on line service
this is definitely one of the better ones. We believe the majority of our
members shop directly from our local hobby store, RC Hobbies owned and
operated by Rick Chambers. 256-539-1347 The benefits to all RC hobby
enthusiasts are immeasurable. Let me just list a few. You get to see, touch
and feel the merchandise you want to buy before you buy it. Rick and his
staff will be more than glad to help you make the best decisions. These guys
want you and me to promote the hobby and to be repeat customers. You will
also learn that RC Hobbies is very competitive with even the lowest priced
on line services. Likewise, returning faulty tools, equipment and defective
products is much easier at RC Hobbies than having to box things up and ship
them off. Not that you encounter defective items often, but when you do, it
sure helps to have someone local to deal with. At times, and on certain
things it may be a little bit more expensive at RC Hobbies, but in the end,
we have a great store with great people to work with.
Help keep
your local hobby store in business by purchasing locally.
7. Have
your stuff ready to go –
This is
pretty self-explanatory.
Have your
stuff ready to go.
Nothing
ruins a potentially good flying day than being pestered by the little things
that can go wrong
when equipment is not properly maintained, charged, cleaned, organized and
ready.
8.
Charging
your transmitter and receiver batteries
– There are now several different kinds of batteries on the market. Some are
newer than others. Some have been proven with much club experience while
others haven’t been tested with time. You will find that most RCRC pilots
use Nicad batteries. The recommended method for charging your receiver and
your transmitter battery is to place them on the manufacturers recommended
battery charger the night before you plan to fly. Basically you are looking
for roughly ten to twelve good charging hours. Most chargers have a charging
indicator light, which should light up if you have a good connection. If you
have a charging light and it doesn’t come on,
you aren’t charging your batteries.
Certain battery chargers will shut down after detecting a full charge. Avoid
overcharging batteries which results from letting them stay on a charger for
days at a time. Once the charging cycle has been completed, use
a BATTERY
TESTER
to check the charge level. Most receiver batteries will peak out around 5.4
volts with a full charge being 5.2 volts. Check your batteries again at the
field as part of your preflight check.
Note:
Nicad batteries are like water in a bucket with a hole in the bottom. If you
leave them off the charger for several hours they will begin to lose power
even if you are not using them. Always make certain your batteries are fully
charged.
It is
recommended that you check your battery charge level after each flight. The
receiver battery will usually drop faster than the transmitter battery.
Check the receiver battery after each flight or at least after every other
flight. Avoid flying with a receiver battery below 4.8 volts. Some pilots
stop flying at 4.9 volts, but no pilots fly below 4.8 volts. You can
purchase a field quick charger. These small charging devices connect to a
12-volt car battery and can recharge your receiver and transmitter battery
in about forty-five minutes. Not a bad idea for an occasional quick charge
if needed at the field, but not recommended as a common recharging method.
Special note: there are different schools of thought regarding whether or
not you should cycle your batteries. It is the general opinion that Nicad
batteries do not need to be cycled though you certainly can do so. Also,
the life of a well maintained quality name brand battery is approximately
three years. Change your batteries at three-year intervals or less.
9.
Parsons
Clip
– This is a clip that secures your servo, battery and power switch
connection wires together. Some people use waxed dental floss or electrical
tape. Most pilots don’t use anything when installing the wing at the field
in preparation for flying.
This is
not good.
All connections should be secured, but the one connection that connects the
wing aileron servos is the one that is constantly being
connected/disconnected each time you install or remove the wing. All
connections should be secured, but it is this one connection that over time
is prove to fail due to the number of times you connect and disconnect the
wiring. The Parsons Clip can be easily installed to ensure that you never
lose a plane because a servo or battery/switch connector disconnects due to
vibration or stresses from flying the airplane.
Airplanes
have been lost because pilots failed to use this $1.50 item. Go figure!
10.
Field
Check in
·
Never
turn your transmitter on before first signing in at the field and securing
your transmitter channel pin from the transmitter pin board. If your
transmitter channel pin is not available DO NOT TURN YOUR TRANSMITTER IN THE
ON POSITION FOR ANY REASON WHILE AT THE FIELD. If you are not certain you
understand this subject ask any club member for further explanation.
·
Your RCRC
club and AMA memberships must be current and up to date to fly at RCRC. If
you are not certain your AMA and club membership are current and up to date,
please see a board member immediately.
11.
Preflight Checks
·
Always
check your receiver and transmitter battery charge levels
with a
tester
before flying the airplane.
·
Make sure
all wiring connections are secured.
·
Use
Parson’s
Clips.
·
Cut and
install a short
piece of fuel hose over each clevis.
This keeps the clevis from opening under pressures applied to moveable
surfaces when flying the airplane.
This
little piece of hose can save your airplane and avoid an injury.
After a relatively short while the fuel hose securing the clevis will begin
to crack and split. Change all cracked and split fuel hose strips before
flying the airplane.
·
Check to
be certain that all
clevis
connections are tight and secure.
Special Note:
When using a metal clevis with a metal fully threaded push/pull rod, put a
drop of CA glue on one of the rod end threads where the rod end makes
contact with the clevis threads. This will keep the rod and clevis from
spinning loose due to engine vibration. Apply CA glue to one rod end only
and not both ends. This will enable you to keep one end free for
adjustments.
·
Check
hinge security
- The moveable ailerons on the wing, rudder on the vertical stabilizer, and
elevators on the horizontal stabilizers are all secured in place usually
with nylon hinges. Other materials can be used for hinges, but most trainers
will use a nylon material. When building the airplane, the hinges are
secured with CA glue. The hinge works as a wick, allowing the CA glue to
freely flow and be absorbed into the balsawood and nylon hinges
simultaneously. Once properly positioned, glued and cured, the nylon hinge
and balsawood become as one.
It should
be so hard to remove the hinge that you actually pull pieces of balsawood
with the hinge when attempting to separate.
The point here is that all hinges should be tightly secured when doing a
preflight check.
Do not fly the aircraft if any hinges slip freely in and out of the hinge
slots
·
You can
install
short
length pieces (1/8”) of fuel hose on the axel
between the wheel hub and the landing gear strut to create a friction break.
When tightening the hex screw on the axel to tighten the wheel hub in
place, first press firmly inward on the wheel hub to tightly position the
hub against the fuel hose strip on the axel. Then tighten the hex head screw
in the wheel collar to hold the wheel hub in position.
This
creates a friction brake.
You know you have it tight enough if the wheel does not freely turn or spin
multiple revolutions.
You don’t want too much friction. The friction should be just enough to stop
your plane within a few feet after freely giving it a firm push and release
on the taxiway.
(Engine is off of course.) When pushing the aircraft, make sure the aircraft
rolls in a straight line forward and not hard to the left or right. A little
right and left movement can be controlled with the rudder and or nose
wheel. The benefit to you is that you have created a friction brake that
will help to keep the aircraft from freely rolling forward when at slow
idle. This will also assist you in stopping the aircraft more quickly if you
are coming in a bit too hot on your landing approach. Note: After a few
takeoffs and landings you will want to check how more freely the wheels
roll. This is the result of the wheel hub wearing down the rubber fuel hose
on the axel. This can vary a good bit, but the brake fuel hose strip should
be changed after roughly fifteen flights.
Special Note:
When securing the wheel hub to the axel, using a wheel collar, use a
hex screw
and not the
setscrews that come standard with wheel collars. The head on setscrews
easily strip making it next to impossible to securely tighten the collar to
the axel. This can result in losing a wheel on take off or landing.
Use hex
screws so you can torque down when tightening.
A small drop of
blue
thread lock is fine.
·
Check
your prop
to make certain it is tightly secured as a standard preflight check. Many
pilots use a locking washer to add extra security. Use a crescent wrench and
really torque down on the nut securing the prop.
·
Check
engine mounts and muffler screws
for
tightness. Engine vibration will cause these fittings and fasteners to
loosen and fall off, or out in a very short time.
Engines
do fall off. Mufflers do fall off.
Landing gear has fallen off.
These
things happen all to often. Use blue thread lock and be certain that all
fittings and fasteners are tightly secured. Also, it is recommended that
you coat wood screw holes with a coating of thin CA glue after threading the
wood hole with a proper sized screw. The CA glue will help reinforce and
strengthen the wood around the hole to provide a more secure fastener. After
threading the hole it is recommended that you allow the CA glue to cure over
night. When you’re ready to place the screw in the hole you can also put a
few drops of thin CA on the screw threads, which will work like thread lock.
Be careful to not get CA glue on plastic or fiberglass canopy and cowling
parts. Debonder used to remove epoxy and CA glue can discolor clear, colored
plastic and fiberglass parts.
·
Before
mounting the wing,
check inside your airplane
to be
ensure that all wires connecting the receiver to the servos, and the battery
to the receiver, and the on off switch are thoroughly secured. Again, use
Parsons Clips
where appropriate. You can also use thin wiring ties to secure wiring and to
keep the inside of the fuselage neat without clutter. Look for signs of
connection ware
and
sliding
wire pins
within the wire connection housing. These wire pins are held in place, with
a very thin piece of plastic. These can easily bend and break. When this
occurs it can allow the wire pin connection to slide freely in and out of
the connection housing. If this should happen, you
will lose servo connection to the receiver resulting in loss of aircraft
control and imminent crash. If
you detect
wire pin slippage
you should immediately change the wire with the bad connector before the
next flight.
·
The
battery and the receiver are to be neatly wrapped with foam rubber and
secured inside the airplane. A loose battery or receiver flopping around
inside the fuselage can obstruct servo function or cause wire separation
resulting in total control loss and imminent crash.
·
Check for
signs of a fuel leak.
This is usually first detected by observing blue or pink fuel stains in the
foam material wrapped around the battery, receiver and the fuel tank. If you
see any signs of a fuel leak, you should immediately remove the fuel tank
and correct the problem. Leaks most frequently occur at the stopper, seams,
hose connections or from holes in the fuel hose.
Special Note:
Unfortunately, many ARF stock fuel tanks fail within the first fifteen
flights. If you are flying a trainer with a stock tank you should change it
out immediately. It is highly recommended that you purchase a Dubro or Hayes
tank as a replacement.
A fuel
leak can severely break down the adhesive strength of Epoxy and CA type
glues. Even the most basic fuel leak must be repaired. Check all
fuel
lines for cracks and leaks.
Make sure the
fuel tank
is foam covered and not making contact with airplane structural elements,
which results in vibration. Engine vibration is of the leading causes of
foam in the fuel tank, which negatively effects engine performance.
·
Look for
any signs of external / internal wing or fuselage cracks.
Check all servo, servo horn screws and throttle connections for tightness
and free movement. Check to ensure that nothing interferes with the free
movement of servos, push/pull rods and throttle movement. The inside area of
the fuselage should be neatly packed and secured. Special note: Wing halves
should be secured with epoxy to avoid wing separation. Many trainers are
designed to hold the wings together with two small wood screws and a small
metal plate on the bottom of the wing. In addition, you may find that the
manufacturer recommends tape for additional support.
This is a
problem waiting to happen.
Vibration will cause the screws to come out and tape is not a sufficient
fastener to hold a wing together. Use an ample supply of epoxy to coat the
bare wood areas where the wing halves join the wing together. Be careful to
not get epoxy on any moveable control surfaces or control rods inside or
around the wing.
·
Programmable radio model verification
– If you
are using a programmable radio, verify the recalled program model number
selection with the plane you are flying. Verify
that trim settings are in the same position as the previous flight.
On manual
radios the trim settings can be easily changed by someone innocently fooling
with your radio, or by something brushing against the manual adjustments.
This can greatly impact the control functions of your airplane resulting in
severe
unanticipated directional control movement.
If you’re not confident in being able to reset trim settings to the previous
flight levels, you should ask an instructor to do a test flight on our
airplane to trim it out for you. .
·
Verify
wing alignment and the center of gravity ( CG )
This a
critical procedure for all pilots on all airplanes. It is especially
critical for new pilots with new airplanes because you may not understand
the importance of having a properly balanced airplane. Never fly an
airplane without checking the
center of
gravity ( CG )
of the airplane. A properly balanced airplane will have a slightly nose
heavy attitude when CG is checked at the proper CG balancing points. This is
usually several inches behind the leading edge of the wing close to the
fuselage. CG balancing location points vary with each airplane. This is why
you need your airplane directions booklet to locate the CG balancing points
of your airplane. A Plane that is slightly nose heavy will fly just fine,
but
a plane
that is tail heavy won’t fly.
Aligning the wing
in the wing saddle is fairly self-explanatory. Verify that the wing is
secured in the wing saddle with no gaps and that wing tips align left to
right of the center of the fuselage. When using a trainer with wings secured
by rubber bands, use nothing less than 8 and nothing smaller than #64
rubber bands to secure the wing in the wing saddle. No less than three
rubber bands on each side. Chris-cross the 7th and 8th
rubber bands to keep the others from slipping off from vibration or
breakage. Special Note: Most pilots throw away the rubber bands at the end
of a flying day. Oil from fuel exhaust will gradually break down the rubber
bands causing failure. Some pilots store used rubber bands in baking or
talc powder to absorb the oil and then reuse the bands. Your choice.
·
Verify
moveable surface directional movement to be accurate.
A good habit to develop is to always check surface movements using the same
verification procedures. Many of us like to use ‘right’ is ‘right’ on the
‘rudder’ and ‘right’ is ‘up’ on the ‘right aileron’. ‘Back’ is ‘up’ and
‘forward’ is ‘down’ on the ‘elevator’. Perfect practice makes perfect
performance. Get in the routine of always checking your controls in the same
manner with the same routine each and every time. You are less likely to
forget by developing good habits.
·
Conduct a
range test.
A range check is required before you fly your first flight at the field even
if everything checked out and worked perfectly on your previous visit. This
can be accomplished by placing the airplane on the ground with engine off.
With the transmitter antenna in the full down position and the transmitter
and receiver in the on position, walk away from the airplane while working
the controls. You should be able to walk away from your airplane at least
fifty or more paces before you notice any flutter in your controls. At about
50 paces, or more it becomes more difficult to see surface movements and
flutter. A spotter can be a big help with this pre-flight function.
Special
note:
metal-to-metal
contact within your airplane will create a
signal
interference,
which may result in control surface flutter, and, or erratic control surface
movement. A common example of metal-to-metal contact is when a metal screw,
used to insall a cowling, makes physical contact with a metal engine part.
Another example is when the control rod connecting the carburetor to the
servo makes physical contact with the muffler, engine or metal mount. (This
is not to be confused with mounting bolts going through a metal engine mount
when mounting the engine. The difference here is a very tight fit connection
with no tolerance between the metal parts, where as the example of the push
rod making contact with a muffler is a loose intermittent contact.)
·
Be sure
all covering seams and edges are secured
with minimal chance of covering material separating from the airplane
structure during flight. A trailing section of covering material trailing
behind your airplane can potentially obstruct moveable surfaces or jam servo
functions resulting in limited or total control loss.
12.
Starting
your Engine
·
Keep
everything clear from the prop. If you have a question about this maybe you
should consider a different hobby
J
Seriously, many of us have gotten careless at one time or another and
accidentally stuck a finger in a moving prop when adjusting engine settings.
Trust me, it hurts and the cut can be very serious. Likewise, loose
drawstrings on jackets or loose clothing can easily become entangled in the
prop jerking the prop quickly into your face or around your neck.
This is
one very good reason why you shouldn’t fly at the field alone without
someone there to help you in the event of emergency.
·
The most
common contributors to
engine
start failure
are a dead or low charged glow starter, bad glow plug or the power switch is
in the off position and the throttle is not responding when you move the
throttle stick on your radio. A dead or low charged field starter battery
can also make for a bad field day. Again, have your stuff ready for a fun
day at the field.
·
Fill your
fuel tank
– Some of our best and most experienced pilots occasionally have memory
lapse and fail to refuel their airplanes before attempting to fly again. On
a personal note, I usually refuel as soon as I land for two reasons. First
it’s a
good
habit
to develop. You are less likely to forget to refill your airplane if you
develop consistent good habits. Secondly, you will eventually learn that
there are better times to go up than others. Maybe you like to fly when
less aggressive, or fewer pilots are in the air. If you wait to fuel your
airplane just before your flight you may have missed the opportunity to fly
at the best time for you. Sometimes the field can be very busy, which means
you had better be ready to go when a pilot station is open and available.
Have everything ready to go so all you have to do is pick your time, start
your airplane and go.
Special
note:
When refueling your airplane take extra care to avoid getting fuel into your
eyes. This can easily happen when a fuel filler line pops loose spewing fuel
on your airplane and possibly in your face and eyes. If this should happen
you will know it instantly because it burns like crazy. You should
immediately ask for help. The club keeps one gallon of fresh water in the
pit in the area near the first aid kit. You should familiarize yourself with
its location for the benefit of everyone. Use the water to immediately flush
your eyes, or to help an injured flyer do the same.
·
When
starting your engine the front of your airplane should be facing in towards
the pit area and not out towards the field.
Be careful and considerate when revving your engine in the pit area.
Use the engine test stand on the north edge of the pit area for engine break
in and testing. Taxi your airplane to one of the flight stations for a
preflight engine power check. The prop blast from your plane can potentially
damage other airplanes and throw debris and exhaust at fellow pilots and
spectators. No one should ever be standing in the direct line with your prop
when throttling up to even partial or full power settings. In the event the
prop should separate, or come lose from the airplane, serious injury and
damage can occur. This is especially important when trying to run the last
remaining drops of fuel out of your engine at the end of the day. It’s easy
to develop a bad habit by starting the engine and then throttling up to full
power with your hand holding the fuselage and your face and eyes inches away
from a prop that could disintegrate in your face.
Keep
everything clear from your prop.
·
Positioning habits
are a good thing.
It is
recommended that
you kneel
off to the right side of your airplane
with your
left hand
securely holding the fuselage
so that your right hand can be free to hand start, or to use a field
starter. Obviously if you are left-handed you will reverse the process. The
point here is to encourage the routine in the process. Many of us prefer to
use a small foam knee pad that you can pick up at any lawn and garden center
for the purpose of positioning your knee on the ground without being in
direct contact with the hard asphalt. Others use a small stool to sit on and
still others just lean on their knees and deal with the discomfort. Once you
have successfully started the engine you can easily put the starter down,
while holding the airplane securely with your other hand. Then simply slide
the hand, holding the airplane, back towards the tail as you move around (keeping
clear of the prop)
behind the airplane to begin your taxi out to a flight station.
Special
note: Now you will appreciate the small piece of fuel tubing on each wheel
that works as a brake. At low idle the plane should sit in place without
movement if you have the idle set right and the fuel tubing brake set up
right.
If your
airplane moves backwards the engine has backfired and started in reverse.
This happens now and then. Kill the engine and restart the engine. Pull your
plane by the tail away from the pit area and position it outbound for your
taxi to the flight line. As you begin your taxi, it’s a good idea to again
check control surface directional movements
and
radio
settings.
Be sure
your
transmitter antenna is fully extended.
Let’s go
flying
J………..
Please refer to the club rules for
take off
and landing protocol and flying rules.
There
are
verbal pilot alerts
you need to become familiar with and use.
Make sure
you are heard and listen for other pilots calling out their flight
intentions.
Develop your
peripheral vision and peripheral hearing ability
to avoid a
midair
collision.
Yes, midair collisions happen more often than any of us would like. It’s a
big sky that can become crowded and very small when everyone wants the same
airspace.
Give way to slower airplanes and especially new pilots.
If a midair collision happens, well, then it happened and that’s the end of
it. Mid-air collisions are not something to worry about. Fly your airplane.
Just be alert when doing so.
Learn how
to land and take off left-to-right and right-to-left.
As you become more comfortable you will want to fly in light wind conditions
to learn more how
a
little wind makes flying actually easier
especially when landing. As soon as you can you need to be prepared for a
dead stick landing.
It’s only a matter of time until you run out of fuel or your engine simply
quits while in flight. No problem if you understand what you should and
shouldn’t do. Ask an instructor or an experienced pilot for help on this
subject.
Special
note to new pilots: When flying your airplane it is highly recommended that
you fly more in-bound rather than way out on the outer edges of the field.
It’s much easier to see your airplane. This will help to avoid potentially
becoming disoriented which is a common cause of crashes. If you should
experience a dead stick, and you will, you are more likely to get your
airplane back to the runway for a good dead stick landing. When you are way
out on the outer edges of the field, possibly flying dead stick into the
wind, well, sometimes it’s a long walk
J
You will also want to become familiar with
the or
weathervane effect
caused by a
crosswind
when taking off and landing. This is more of an issue with smaller tail
dragger airplanes, but even larger airplanes, and those equipped with a
nose-wheel are impacted by a crosswind.
The weathervane effect is best defined by the effects of the wind on take
off, or when landing in a crosswind.
The runway
at RCRC runs north to south. A wind blowing out of the east, or west creates
a crosswind. On take off, or when landing the effects of a crosswind will
blow on the airplane tail surface, pushing the tail in the same direction
the wind is blowing. If you are taking off, or landing from south to north
(right to left at RCRC), with a crosswind from the west, (behind you at RCRC)
the cross wind will push the tail away from you, towards the open field.
Likewise, the nose of your airplane will be driven inbound towards the fence
potentially causing your airplane to fly into the fence, or another pilot.
This is commonly referred to as the weathervane effect.
This can
happen in an instant with devastating results. Now you know one of the main
reasons why the fence is there. In the event you should lose control of your
airplane remember that safety is the primary objective. You can always build
a new airplane, but an injury caused by an out of control airplane can be
fatal. Crash the airplane, but never fly into the pit, or spectator areas
trying to save an airplane.
Special
note:
New pilots should observe how more experienced pilots take off and land in a
crosswind.
At RCRC, the effects of a crosswind are usually more pronounced with wind
blowing from behind the flight line, or blowing out of the west. In theory,
we believe the pit structures create a vortex effect causing the wind to
swirl near the flight line. This can cause your airplane attitude to respond
strangely on take off and landing. To counter the weathervane effect,
angle
the
airplane with the nose pointed in the same direction the wind is blowing on
the landing approach, or when lining up for taking off. This will require
added rudder to counter the crosswind. With tail-dragger airplanes, a very
slight bit of up elevator will help keep the tail wheel on the ground for
added control.
The
amount of rudder and elevator control required will vary with each airplane
and crosswind speed.
The weathervane effect can drive even the most experienced pilots into the
fence if they are caught off guard, and not paying attention to wind
direction and wind speed.
Lastly,
there is no dishonor in asking for an instructor to get the trainer box out
to work with you even after you have soloed. Go at a pace you feel
comfortable with.
Never hesitate to ask someone to help you get your airplane down when the
knees begin to shake. We all have been there. You might also want to ask an
instructor, or a fellow pilot to be your
spotter
at
the flight line until you become more comfortable with your airplane and the
field. A spotter serves as a second pair of eyes and ears. This is not the
time to socialize and joke around. You need
to keep
your eyes and attention on your airplane at all times.
When in flight never, never take your eyes off your airplane.
Ok, gas
her up and let’s go flying.
To produce an RTV rubber mold, a high-quality master pattern must first
be made. A master can be made of any material that does not inhibit the
curing of the RTV rubber. Balsa, cardboard, hardwood, plastic, metal, and
sulfur-free "plasticene" modeling clay are suitable materials. Porous
materials such as balsa must be sanded and sealed before the RTV can be
poured over them. The master should also be clean and dry. RTV silicone
rubbers and polyurethane resins will not cure properly if moisture is
present on the master or mold. To make a nose cone master, for example, a hardwood nose cone can be
turned on a lathe or a drill press, then sanded and sealed. The nose
should be sprayed with a wax-based release agent (Synair's Synlube 531,
for example) and allowed to dry. The dowel at the nose's rear can be
pressed into a smooth bed of sulfur-free "plasticene" modeling clay (other
clays can inhibit curing in the RTV rubber). The dowel is pressed into the
clay until the back of the tenon is flush with the clay surface. A
superior master can be made by turning polycarbonate, lucite, lexan,
nylon, or aluminum rod stock on a lathe. Masters made of these materials
require neither sanding & sealing nor a release agent. A transition or a
boat-tail would be produced in a similar fashion. Consult Peter Alway's
"The Art of Scale Model Rocketry" (Saturn Press, 1994) for more
information on turning parts. A mold box must be built around the master. It can be cardboard, wood,
metal, or plastic. Porous box materials must first be sealed with a
wax-based mold release or be covered with plastic tape like scotch tape.
An easy way to make a small mold box is to roll a piece of sheet styrene
into a cylinder, tape the seam, and stick it into the clay around the
master. There should be 1/4" to 1/2" of space between the master and the
walls of the mold box. The walls should be 1/4" to 1/2" higher than the
master. The RTV silicone rubber can now be mixed. RTV silicones consist of a
rubber and a catalyst, and most are mixed in a 10:1 ratio (rubber to
catalyst) by weight. For one-piece molds, use a low-durometer (soft)
rubber no harder than a Shore A15 (Ace Resin's RTV and Dow Corning's
HS-III RTV are A12). The rubber and catalyst are weighed (a postal scale
is good for this) and mixed in plastic containers (do NOT use wax-lined or
styrofoam cups). Pour the catalyst into the rubber and fold the rubber and
catalyst together, being careful not to whip air into the mixture. Scrape
the bottom and sides of the mixing container to make sure the rubber and
catalyst are thoroughly mixed. It is often helpful to transfer the
material into a second container to complete the mixing. Any unmixed
material could leave uncured sticky spots in the mold cavity. If you have access to a vacuum chamber, it is best to de-air the rubber
before pouring it into the mold. De-airing prevents air bubbles from
forming in the mold. If a bubble is on the surface of the master, every
casting will have a raised "bump" at that spot. If you de-air the rubber,
it should be in a container that is three to five times as high as the
level of the rubber. The rubber will foam up to this height, then settle
back down as the air bubbles escape. If you don't have a vacuum chamber, pour the rubber slowly in a thin
stream into the mold box. Pour it as far from the master as possible and
let it rise up over the master of its own accord. This is advisable even
if the rubber has been vacuum de-aired. The low durometer rubbers usually
have low pouring viscosities, and some of them (Ace Resin RTV, Alumilite
"Quick-Set" RTV, and Dow Corning HS-III & 3110) do not require vacuum
de-airing. Some RTV rubbers, such as Alumilite "Quick-Set," will cure in
as little as four hours, but for a long mold life it is best to let the
rubber cure for at least twenty-four hours before attempting to use the
mold. After the rubber has cured, carefully remove the clay from the
master and then carefully remove the master from the mold.
Rubber Band Tips
Rubber
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When covering a model you will find that the best knife is no knife at all !
Use single edge razor blades. They are cheep (you can buy them by the
hundred in most paint or hardware stores), cut for a long time, and are much
easier to use then a hobby knife.
VERY IMPORTANT : take a small one inch strip of
masking tape and tape over half of the blade or you will spend most of your
time put ing band-aids on your remaining fingers! When the blade gets dull
take the tape off and cover the dull side. If you make the tape longer it
sticks out and gives you something to hold on to. You can also tape the two
ends and leave the middle of the blade uncovered this will allow you to use
it like a razor plane to round off edges. Tape or glue on a piece of balsa
wood and use this as a spacer to cut ¼ inch borders for overlaps.
CRACKS
Plastic engine cowls always look great on you airplane....until you start the
engine. Minor bumping, engine vibration eventually leads to cracks. You can stop the
crack from growing by drilling a hole at the end point of the crack. This "crack
stopper" is actually a device to relieve the high stress area at the end of the crack
and is a common practice in working with sheet metal. Reinforcement as outlined below will
help this in not occurring.
FIBERGLASS CLOTH
Fiberglass cloth and the blue ABS cement (the same stuff that you use to
glue your lawn sprinkler pipe together),makes good reinforcement for cowlings or wing
tips. Lay cloth inside the ABS part then paint on the blue goo. Let the glue set up and
you're ready to go.
Another is to rough up the inside of the cowl with heavy sandpaper (50-80 grit) or by
scratching with the sharp point of a #11 Xacto blade. Mix up a batch of resin (epoxy or
polyester) and lay fiberglass cloth inside the cowl. The bigger the cowl, the heavier the
cloth should be.
Still another method is use a product from SIG manufacturing called CELASTIC. It
comes in large sheets and is about 1/16" thick and is fairly rigid. Cut a section of
this material suitable for the area you want to reinforce and moisten it with acetone
until it become limp and mushy. This does not take long, nor does it take much acetone.
Now lay this material inside the cowl and form it to the contours of the cowl with your
fingers. The acetone will literally melt the cowl plastic and the Celastic together and
make a rigid, tough structure. After the Celastic dries out it can be sanded, cut,
drilled, etc and it will retain its strength.
PLASTIC MATERIALS
Two liter Coke bottles have a black plastic reinforcement on the bottom of the
bottle. This reinforcement piece makes an excellent radial engine cowling for your next
project.
REINFORCEMENT OF CENTER SECTIONS
Fabric and yardage stores sell a material product known as "pellon". This
can be used for general reinforcement and is especially good for wing center sections. Be
careful when you do apply it, as it does have "grain" and should be applied in
the direction that affords maximum strength.
Rocket launcher
Rocket Equations -
Predict speed, altitude from weight, diameter, thrust & impulse
RCRC ROOKIE TIPSResin Casting for Rocketeers
Creating A Master Pattern
Making The Mold Box
Mixing & Pouring The RTV Rubber
RUBBER BANDS
Alliance brand rubber bands are the preferred brand for wing hold downs and other
model applications. They do not deteriorate as rapidly as American brand (and others). Try
them!
SECURING YOUR WINGS SECURING
YOUR WINGS
I suggest it takes two # 64 rubber bands for each
pound of total aircraft weight. Therefore, a six pound airplane would require at least six
rubber bands on each side of the airplane to properly secure the wing. If you see your
wing separate
separate from the fuselage while pulling out of a dive.. is another indicator that you do
not have enough rubber bands.
As a general rule I always use a minimum of 8 rubber bands for any given aircraft.
When you get the wing mounted and all the rubber bands you need over the wing,
put one more rubber band on the rear dowel going across the fuselage (not back over the
wing). When you are done flying for the day, slide your hold down rubber bands off the
front dowel. This rear rubber band will keep the others from flying all over the place.
Why we use Rubber Lube and Stretch Wind