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    LAST UPDATED : SEPT 28 -08
DEAD LINK CHECK : SEPT 28 -08
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Boca

  •    Boca Bearing is a supplier of ball bearings for modelling and industry. Good place to getttttt bearings for bushed motors.
    Boca Bearing,  755 NW 17th Ave. #107, Delray Beach, FL 33445
    Phone 1-800-332-3256

  • CARBURETORS
    Testing for  Air Leaks

    With the multitude of carburetors on the market- Each has its' own peculiarity     and fixes for them. The "O' rings are the first to suspect for an air leak, However those carburetors that have both high speed and low speed needle valves.. a problem of an air leak may exist in one or both of them.
    Inlet nipples on the needle valves may have screw in types of assemblies and some are sealed with an"O" ring or gasket, while others may have a high temp sealant. Carburetor Clones seem to have less reliable sealants with their Idle stop screws.

    The best way to check for Carburetor air leaks is to remove the entire  unit  for testing.Attach a piece of fuel tubing into the carb and place your finger over the top and bottom of the carb.Submerge the Carburetor in water and blow. If you see air bubbles ... you have a leak. The bigger the bubbles.... The bigger the leak .    The idle stop screw: Can easily be a problem, especially OS and clones that use a gasketed housing that screws into the carb body, and the screw then goes into this small housing. The little gasket can fail, or the screw - housing joint gets sloppy. Fox and some K&B carbs just use a little spring to keep the screw from backing out; with some vibration, these can really get sloppy. Sealant and maybe a locknut on the screw can cure this.

    New needle valve assemblies may or may not come with gaskets or "O" rings. Check before you buy.

      Cleaning your Carburetor in the Field
    The best way to clean the carb is to remove it, disassemble completely, and thoroughly clean out all passages, using a hat pin or whatever to probe through every hole.

    But out at the field, a quick fix is to BACK FLUSH the carburetor with fuel. This doesn't require carb removal, and can be done in just a few minutes.

    1. Check to see where its set, and then remove the main needle valve screw, then the fuel inlet tubing, and also disconnect the throttle control rod or cable from the throttle arm.

    2.Remove the carb barrel; loosen the screw that holds in the barrel (on some carbs, the idle stop screw- the barrel keeper screw will be very close to the end of the carb where the throttle control arm is), and slide out the carb barrel.  Be aware that some carburetors have springs in the barrel assembly and some dont. It takes longer to find the spring than it does to flush the carb.

    3. The hole in the end of the carb body, where the barrel came out, should expose the spraybar. Slide a fuel tube from your pump over the end of the spray bar. If this is not a snug fit, you will have to push the tubing against the end of the carb body to hold pumping pressure.

    4. Put your finger over the fuel inlet nipple and over the needle housing so both passages are thoroughly flushed.

    5. Be sure that the spring, if you had one, is inside before inserting the barrel. And be very careful that the barrel keeper screw actually is in its little slot before tightening .
    Perry Pumps & Carburetors
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