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Model Help Index HELP - B
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 | (OIL)
Using K2R Spot Remover in spray will get the oil out of the balsa wood.
Heavily saturated sections may take several applications.Oil soaked balsa can also be
successfully glued with thin CA.
(Curving Balsa)
Ammonia (Found the household section of the supermarket), put in
a spray bottle, works fine.
Just both sides of balsa sheet liberally. Carefully bend the sheet to the right
shape. You can even tape it to a form, such as aluminum soda cans, and let it dry. Once
dry, it may be used as turtle-decks, etc.
(Cutting Balsa)
When cutting a piece of wood with an Exacto knife, draw
the knife so that if gets "caught" by the grain, it will go towards the scrap
piece of material. This should always be done even with the use of a straightedge as the
knife could be drawn towards it and possibly push the straightedge out of alignment.
(DINGS)
There is a way to get these dents out of balsa without additional
filler material.Just wet the dented area with plain water. Let it soak in to the
wood.Then a Monokote iron, set to its hottest position, gently iron over the dented
area. The steam being generated in the wood forces open the compressed section (i.e. the
dent).
 | BALSA ID
CHART THE STRENGTH OF
BALSA IS DIRECTLY RELATED TO ITS' DENSITY.
The heavier the wood, the stronger the Balsa.
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 | A- GRAIN
Sheet balsa has very long fibers that show up as long grain lines. It is very flexible
across the sheet, and bends around curves easily. It also Warps easily. This is
sometimes called the " Tangent Cut".
GOOD FOR : Sheet covering of rounded
fuselages and wing leading edges, Planking fuselages and makes for strong flexible Spars.
Also is good for building Hand Launched Gliders.
NOT GOOD FOR : Sheet
Balsa Wings or tail surfaces , FLAT fuselage sides , RIBS, or formers.
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 | B-
GRAIN Sheet balsa has some of the qualities of
type " A" and type " C" .The grain
lines are shorter than type " A" and appears stiffer across the
sheet . It is a general purpose sheet cut that can be used for many applications. This is
sometimes called the " Randem Cut".
GOOD FOR : Flat fuselage
sides, Trailing Edges , wing ribs, Formers, planking and wing leading edge sheeting.
NOT GOOD FOR : Use where type
" A" and type " C" will do a better
job. |
 | C-
GRAIN Sheet balsa has a beautiful mollted appearance. It is
very stiff across the sheet and splits easily. When used properly however, it builds
the lightest and strongest models. This is considered the best for warp resistant balsa,
and is sometimes called the " Quarter Grain".
GOOD FOR : Flat fuselage
sides, Trailing Edges , wing ribs, Formers, planking and wing leading edge sheeting. Best
type for Hand Glider wings and tails.
NOT GOOD FOR : Curved Planking,
Rounded Fuselages, Round Tubes, Hand Launched Glider Fuselages, or Wing Spars. |
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 | Quit guessing at the setup of you airplanes. An accurate
deflection degree indicator that can be fabricated from scrap found around your shop. You
do need a clothespin, a plastic school type protractor, some brass tubing, screws and
a fishing weight. Start by drilling a hole in the protractor exactly at the zero by ninety
degree center axis. The hole should be sized such that you can just slip in one of those
brass eyelets that come with your servo mounting grommets. Peen the small side of the
eyelet over the protractor plastic to keep it in place in the protractor. Take a three
inch long piece of 1/8" brass tubing and flatten the center section over a length of
about 1/2". Drill a #44 hole (i.e. the right size for a 2-56 screw) through this
flattened section. Take a small size of music wire and solder it into one end of the brass
tube. This music wire will be the pointer to read against the protractor, so you may want
to file a point on to the end if the wire. The distance between the hole drilled into the
brass tube and the end of the pointer wire should be slightly less that the distance
between the hole drilled into the protractor and the outside edge of the protractor.
Solder the other end of the brass tube to a lead weight. John used a one ounce fishing
weight, but the less weight you can get away with, the better. The amount of weight
required will depend on the freedom of movement when the pointer assembly is attached to
the protractor. Attach the pointer assembly to the protractor using a 2-56 screw, flat
washers and either Locktite or a jam nut to keep everything in place. Set the protractor
on a known level surface, such that the pointer can move freely, and bend adjust until the
pointer is at the ninety degree mark on the protractor. Take a standard wooden clothes pin
and cut about a half an inch off of one leg. Cut a groove on the outside of the long leg
about one to two inches long. Epoxy one side of the protractor into this groove. To
use, simply clamp the device on to the horizontal surface to be adjusted. For example,
after a trim flight, set the airplane on a suitable surface and clip the indicator onto
the control surface. Read the degrees deflection on the protractor. Reset the transmitter
trim to its center position, and then adjust the clevis until your previous deflection
reading is obtained.
Reprint with permission of Howard Sullivan
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 | (APPLICATIONS)
If you have been flying R/C for more than two years, you will have started
to collect transmitter and receiver battery packs that don't quite measure up any longer
to cycle testing . Don't throw them away because there are some useful applications for
these "unsafe for flight" battery packs. First, snip off the connector pigtail
for use in making up your new battery packs. You will find homemade packs to be just as
good, and substantially cheaper, as those supplied by your radio manufacturer. Disassemble
and separate the cells in the old pack. If you have discharged the pack down to a low
voltage, you can use a VOM (volt - ohm meter) to determine which of the cells are really
no good. They will be the one(s) that are still significantly less that 1.2 volts,
measured after you have let the discharged battery pack sit for about an hour. Deposit
those low voltage cells in you favorite round container. The remaining cells can be wired
up in series to make a self contained electric fuel pump, or wired in parallel with a glo
connector added to make a engine starting pack, or can be wired in parallel and used as
nose weight (in lieu of lead) with the added benefit of being an on board ignition system;
you can even get fancy with a micro switch on the throttle servo so the current only comes
on at low speeds. These are just a few uses of old, tired nicads.
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 | (BENDING)
There are various size spring sets you can buy that
assist you in making a smooth bend, but what if you don't have a spring, closely
wrap the section to be bent with soft wire, like bailing wire. You'll be able to make a
nice, almost kink free bend. Just unwrap the wire when you're done. NO SOFT WIRE ? Try
stout twine like a mason's twine.
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Got a Tip :contact: gwhite4432@aol.com Subject: Help information. |
 | Balsa Facts

Sig Manufacturing Co, Inc has been one of the Radio Control industry leaders since
1951, manufacturing an extensive line of radio control, control line and free flight model
aircraft kits as well as numerous accessories and a complete assortment of balsa for the
modeler who enjoys scratch building. The nice people at Sig have graciously permitted us
to reprint the following article from their catalog, which will tell you all about balsa.
Interesting
Facts about Balsa Wood. . .
Model airplanes are no different than any other type of flying machine, large or
small - THE LIGHTER IT IS BUILT, THE BETTER IT WILL FLY! With that in mind, it is easy to
understand why balsa wood has been the standard material for model airplane construction
since it first became readily available in the U.S. in the late 1920s. Its outstanding
strength-to-weight ratio enables hobbyists to construct durable models that fly in a
totally realistic manner. Balsa also absorbs shock and vibration well and can be easily
cut, shaped, and glued with simple hand tools.
Where does Balsa Wood come from?
Balsa trees grow naturally in the humid rain
forests of Central and South America. Its natural range extends south from Guatemala,
through Central America, to the north and west coast of South America as far as Bolivia.
However, the small country of Ecquador on the western coast of South America, is the
primary source of model aircraft grade blasa in the world. Blasa needs a warm climate with
plenty of rainfall and good drainage. For that reason, the best stands of balsa usually
appear on the high ground between tropical rivers. Ecquador has the ideal geography and
climate for growing balsa trees. The scientific name for balsa wood is ochroma lagopus.
The word balsa itself is Spanish meaning raft, in reference to its excellent floatation
qualities. In Ecquador it is known as Boya, meaning buoy.
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 | How does Balsa Wood grow?
There is no such thing as entire forests of balsa trees. They
grow singly or in very small, widely scattered groups in the jungle. For hundreds of
years, balsa was actually considered a weed tree. They reproduce by growing hundreds of
long seed pods, which eventually open up and, with the help of the wind, scatter thousands
of new seeds over a large area of the jungle. Each seed is airborne on its own small wisp
of down, similar to the way dandelion seeds spread. The seeds eventually fall to the
ground and are covered by the litter of the jungle. There they lay and accumulate until
one day there is an opening in the jungle canopy large enough for the sun's rays to strike
the jungle floor and start the seeds growing. Wherever there is an opening, made either by
a farmer or by another tree dying, balsa will spring up as thick as grass. A farmer is
often hard put to keep his food plot clear of balsa. As the new balsa trees grow, the
strongest will become predominate and the weaker trees will die. By the time they are
mature, there may be only one or two basa trees to an acre of jungle.
How long does it take a Balsa tree to grow?
Balsa trees grow very rapidly (like all pesky weeds). Six months after germination,
the tree is about 1-1/2 inches in diameter and 10 - 12 feet tall. In 6 to 10 years the
tree is ready for cutting, having reached a height of 60 to 90 feet tall and a diameter of
12 to 45 inches. If left to continue growing, the new wood being grown on the outside
layers becomes very hard and the tree begins to rot in the center. Unharvested, a balsa
tree may grow to a diameter of 6 feet or more, but very little usable lumber can be
obtained from a tree of this size. The basla leaf is similar in shape to a grape leaf,
only a lot bigger. When the tree is young, these leaves measure a much as four feet
across. They become progressivly smaller as the tree grows older, until they are about 8 -
10 inches across. Balsa is one of the few trees in the jungle which has a simple leaf
shape. This fact alone makes the balsa tree stand out in the jungle.
The perfect nurse!
Nature evidently designed the balsa tree to be a "nurse tree" which would
protect the slower-growing species of trees from the scorching jungle sun during their
critical early years. For instance, in an area of the jungle that has been ravaged by a
tropical storm or other natural disaster, the balsa trees will quickly sprout and begin to
shoot up to impressive heights in a very short time. Their fast growth, and the extra
large leaves they have in their early years, provide shade to the young seedlings of the
slower-growing forest giants. By the time the seedlings are established enough to take
care of themselves, the balsa tree is beginning to die. Undoubtably, the balsa tree's
rapid growth, fast spreading crown of first very large and gradually smaller leaves, and
it's relatively short life span were intended to make it the "perfect nurse" in
the jungle ecosystem.
How are Balsa trees harvested?
While nature intended the balsa tree to be a short lived nursemaid, mankind
eventually discovered that it was an extremely useful resource. The real start of the basa
business was during World War I, when the allies were in need of a plentiful substitute
for cork. The only drawback to using balsa was, and still is, the back breaking work that
is necessary to get it out of the jungle. Beacause of the way the individual balsa trees
are scattered throughtout the jungles, it has never been possible to use mass production
logging procedures and equipment. The best way to log balsa trees is to go back to the
methods of Paul Bunyan -- chop them down with an axe, haul them to the nearest river by ox
team, tie them together into rafts, and then float the rafts of balsa logs down the river
to the saw mill.
The logging team usually consists of two native Ecquadorians, each armed with a broad
Spanish axe, a machete, and a long pole sharpened like a chisel on one end for removing
the bark from the downed trees. Because of the hilly terrain, an ox team may only be able
to drag two logs to the river per day. At the saw mill the raw balsa is first rough cut
into large boards, the carefully kiln dried, and finally packed into bales for shipment to
the U.S. via ocean freighter. Final cutting and finishing of our model aircraft balsa is
done right here at the SIG factory. As a result of the balsa tree's fast growth cycle,
both the quality and lightness of the lumber obtained from a balsa tree can vary
enormously depending upon the tree's age at the time of cutting.
Why is Balsa Wood so light?
The secret to balsa wood's lightness can only be seen with a microscope. The cells
are big and very thin walled, so that the ratio of solid matter to open space is as small
as possible. Most woods have gobs of heavy, plastic-like cement, called lignin, holding
the cells together. In balsa, lignin is at a minimum. Only about 40% of the volume of a
piece of balsa is solid substance. To give a balsa tree the strength it needs to stand in
the jungle, nature pumps each balsa cell full of water until they become rigid - like a
car tire full of air. Green balsa wood typically contains five times as much water by
weight as it has actual wood substance, compared to most hardwoods which contain very
little water in relation to wood substance. Green balsa wood must therefore be carefully
kiln dried to remove most of the water before it can be sold. Kiln drying is a tedious two
week process that carefully removes the excess water until the moisture content is only
6%. Kiln drying also kills any bacteria, fungi, and insects that may have been in the raw
balsa wood.
How light is kiln dried Basla Wood?
Finished balsa wood, like you find in model airplane kits,
varies widely in weight. Balsa is occasionally found weighing as little as 4 lbs. per cu.
ft. On the other hand, you can also find balsa which will weigh 24 lbs or more per cu. ft.
However, the general run of commercial balsa for model airplanes will weigh between 6 and
18 pounds per cu. ft. Eight to twelve pound balsa is considered medium or average weight,
and is the most plentiful. Six pound or less is considered "contest grade",
which is very rare and sometimes even impossible to obtain.
Is Balsa the lightest wood in the world?
No! Most people are surprised to hear that
botanically, balsa wood is only about the third or fourth lightest wood in the world.
However, all the woods which are lighter than balsa are terribly weak and unsuitable for
any practical use. The very lightest varieties don't really resemble wood at all, as we
commonly think of it, but are more like a tree-like vegetable that grows in rings, similar
in texture to an onion. It is not until balsa is reached that there is any sign of real
strength combined with lightness. In fact, balsa wood is often considered the strongest
wood for its weight in the world. Pound for pound it is stronger in some respects than
pine, hickory, or even oak. Refer to chart below for comparison.
Strength of Balsa Compared to
Other Woods |
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Species
Balsa
Balsa
Balsa
Spruce
Yellow Pine
Douglas Fir
Hickory
Oak
Basswood
Black Walnut |
Weight
8
10
14
28
28
30
50
48
26
37 |
Stiffness
72
100
156
230
222
241
379
295
261
301 |
Bending
70
100
161
260
277
291
638
430
288
506 |
Compression
75
100
149
289
288
341
514
366
288
512 |
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About the
Chart: Weight shown is in pounds per cubic foot. The strength of balsa varies in
direct
relation to its density or weight the heavier the wood,
the stronger it is. The above chart was designed with
10 lb/ft³ balsa as the median. In other words, balsa at 10 lb/ft³ has been tested
and given a value of 100. The other
woods were then tested in the same way and given a figure that is numerically in
proportion. By comparing the relative
strength figures in the chart, it will be seen that balsa is as strong or stronger,
pound for pound, than most of the species
shown.Selecting Balsa for Model Building
Common Modeler's Tools for Cutting and Shaping Balsa Wood
You don't need heavy-duty power saws and sanders like you would
if working with a hardwood. In fact, even with an extensive power
shop at their disposal, the professional model builders here at the SIG factory
find that they still rely primarily on 4 or 5 simple hand tools for the majority of their
work. If you are just starting out in the model airplane hobby, here are the tools that
they recommend you get:
X-ACTO No. 1 knife with No. 11 blade for general cutting
X-ACTO No. 2 knife with No. 26 blade for carving
Razor saw for cutting thick sizes of wood
Razor plane for shaping
A knife or razor blade will work well for cutting balsa sheets and sticks up to
3/16". Always keep
replacement blades on hand blades do wear our and a dull blade can make it
impossible to do a good job.
You Will Also Need Sanding Blocks. In addition to the cutting tools, you
will need an assortment of different size
sanding blocks. These are indispenable tools for model construction. You can buy
ready-made sanding blocks or make
your own. The most often used general-purpose sanding block in our model shop is
made simply by wrapping a full
9" x 11" sheet of sandpaper around a 3/4" x 3" x 11"
hardwood or plywood block. Use three screws along one edge to
hold the overlapped ends of the sandpaper in place. Use 80 grit garnet sandpaper on
the block during general construction.
Another handy sanding block to have can be made by gluing 80 grit garnet sandpaper
onto a 24" or 36" long piece of
aluminum channel stock. Most hardware stores carry a rack of aluminum in various
sizes and shapes. This long sanding
block is very helpful for shaping leading and trailing edges, and other large
pieces, accurately. Last but not least,
glue sandpaper onto different sizes of scrap plywood sticks and round hardwood
dowels. These are handy for working in
tight places and for careful shaping where a big sanding block is too hard to
control.
Most hobby shops have a large rack of balsa sheets, sticks, and blocks that you can
choose from if you are going to
build a model airplane from scratch. Undoubtably, because of the nature of balsa,
the actual weight of each piece of
wood of the same size can vary slightly. When you select the pieces you want to buy
you should keep their final use in
mind. Logically one should select the lightest grades for the lightly stressed
model parts (nose blocks, wingtip blocks,
fill-ins, etc.) and the heavier grades for important load bearing parts of the
structure (spars, fuselage stringers, etc.).
To a large extent, this selection is already partly done for you. Here at SIG, we
purosely cut up our lightest raw
balsa into blocks, and our hardest raw balsa into sticks. |
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